The Lost Coast: Stories from the Surf
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About this book
Surfers read the patterns of the sea like others read a book. For them the organization of swells and currents and the curling folds of the waves are elements of a natural language as coherent in structure and meaning as any taught in school. Each of the eighteen stories in this collection is a raw glimpse of surf life-from sliding into cold stiff neoprene to experiencing the ecstasy of the Pure Art of Surfing. Most previously published in magazines over the past thirty-five years the stories in this collection capture the movement mythology fantasy and philosophy of surf life and culture on the sweet and ragged wild edge of beauty.
